A Winter Escape to Fukuoka and Kyushu: Food, Design, and Unexpected Delights

I visited Fukuoka and the wider Kyushu region in winter, and the trip turned out to be one of the most charming and memorable cold-season getaways I’ve had. While many people associate Japan’s winter with snow-covered landscapes up north, Kyushu offers something different — a gentler climate, incredible food, thoughtful architecture, and small surprises that leave a lasting impression. Here are some highlights from the journey. Yanagawa: Canals and Unagi A boat ride through the canals of Yanagawa is like drifting back in time. We glided slowly along narrow waterways lined with traditional houses and overhanging willow trees. The boatman sang Japanese songs as he steered — a small but magical touch that enhances the experience.

Yanagawa is famous for eel, and we had ours at Wakamatsuya, a historic restaurant known for its seiro-mushi (steamed eel over rice). At around 4,000 yen, it was worth every yen. The eel was tender and fragrant, the sauce perfectly balanced — sweet but not overwhelming — and the rice had absorbed all that rich flavor.

Dazaifu A short trip from Fukuoka brought us to Dazaifu. The Starbucks Dazaifu Tenmangu Omotesando, designed by world-renowned architect Kengo Kuma, is unlike any Starbucks I’ve seen. Interlocking wooden beams crisscross the interior, creating a dynamic yet warm space that blends contemporary design with traditional Japanese craftsmanship. Even if you’re not craving coffee, it’s worth stepping inside just to admire the architecture.

The Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine is crowded for a reason. It is scenic and well kept. We were wowed by the garden on top of the shrine's roof.

Kumamoto was another place we visited. The Kumamoto castle is widely considered one of Japan’s three "premier" castles (alongside Himeji Castle and Matsumoto Castle).

In Kumamoto, one of the most unforgettable meals of the trip was at Katsuretsu Tei Shinshigai. Their tonkotsu (pork cutlet) was exceptional — crispy on the outside, juicy and tender inside, and bursting with flavor. Every bite had that satisfying crunch followed by succulent richness. It was easily one of the best meals of the entire journey.

Back in Fukuoka, food is a serious business. We joined the long queue at Shin Shin Ramen at 7pm, and despite waiting more than half an hour, no one seemed impatient — a testament to its popularity. The Hakata-style tonkotsu ramen was deeply satisfying: rich, milky pork broth with thin, springy noodles that soaked up every drop. In winter, it felt like the perfect antidote to the cold.

For dessert, Aux Bacchanales became our go-to indulgence. The cakes and pastries were so good that we returned twice. One of its greatest advantages? It doesn’t close early, which makes it a perfect late-evening stop when many other places have already shut their doors.

But Fukuoka impressed me in unexpected ways too. At One Fukuoka Building, I encountered one of the most surprisingly delightful innovations: a real-time display outside the restroom showing which toilet cubicles were vacant on each floor. It sounds simple, but the clarity, efficiency, and thoughtful design were thoroughly impressive. Japan’s attention to everyday detail never ceases to amaze me.